Tiberias: Whispers of a Vanished Past
Words by Ghayad Khatib
In the heart of a city where history still whispers through the streets, an old mosque stands as a quiet sentinel of the past. Its columns, worn and weathered by the passage of time, and its arched walls filled with tales of a once-vibrant community, are the last remaining traces of the Palestinian presence in Tiberias. This mosque that holds onto its dignity and pride amidst the changing landscape is more than just a building: it's a symbol of resilience and memory. As you approach, you find yourself at the entrance of a bustling market, where this mosque once stood as a proud emblem of beauty, drawing the attention of all who passed by. Its history stretches back over two centuries, and it is here that our story begins. Through the lens of this mosque, we'll journey into the heart of Tiberias, uncovering the everyday life and buried memories of a city that refuses to be forgotten.
The Last Sentinel: Tiberias' Forgotten Heart
Tiberias – a city that epitomizes the struggle for survival from its inception – is situated in the Jordan Valley of Palestine. Nestled among notable cities like Samakh, Beisan, and Jericho, it forms part of the Syrian-African Rift system—a region of profound geographical and historical significance
Foundations of Tiberias
Established during the reign of Herod Antipas in 20 B.C, Tiberias was built on the ancient Canaanite village of Rakkat and named in honor of Emperor Tiberius. Originally conceived as a defensive stronghold, the city was meticulously designed to safeguard the Sea of Galilee and the adjacent mineral baths. Herod’s ambitious vision was realized with the construction of a nine-mile-long aqueduct, stretching from the northern to the southern parts of the city along the western shore of the Sea of Galilee, tracing the eastern slopes of Mount Loz. This engineering marvel not only facilitated the city's growth but also underscored its strategic importance. Situated approximately 200 meters below sea level, Tiberias was encircled by the districts of Safed, Acre, Nazareth, and Beisan, extending its influence into Jordan and Syria. This unique positioning contributed to Tiberias' significance as a cultural and historical nexus, bridging various regions and civilizations..
Ottoman Revival and Architectural Transformation
Severely impacted by successive conflicts, Tiberias underwent a remarkable revival under Ottoman rule, particularly during the era of Dahir al-Umar. This period marked significant architectural and urban transformation driven by two primary axes of development.
Restoration of Roman-Era Damages
The first axis focused on addressing the damage inflicted by earlier Persian invasions during the Roman period. Restoration efforts were concentrated on rehabilitating public baths, the main square, and churches along the lakeshore, as well as restoring remnants of the ancient Roman city. Notable projects included the restoration of Tiberias Fortress, repurposed as a governmental residence, and the renewal of the fortified city wall, characterized by its impressive marble columns extending into the water.
Expansion and Urban Growth
The second axis involved expanding the city into the previously unfortified southern coastal region. By 1749, this area was integrated into the existing Roman wall, facilitating substantial urban growth. The city was re-planned around major mosques, which became central to its expansion. Three significant mosques were constructed: the Jasmine Mosque, the Marine Mosque, and – the largest – the Omari Mosque (later known as the Zaidani Mosque), situated in the northern district. Surrounded by vibrant markets and new residential areas, Tiberias revitalized itself as a thriving urban center, blending historical heritage with innovative architectural development.
Economic and Cultural Flourishing
As Tiberias rose to prominence as the capital of the Jordan District (Jund al-Urdunn), it emerged as a vital epicenter of leisure, natural healing, global trade, and industrial activity. The city's unique geographical features played a significant role in its prosperity. The western terrain, shaped by volcanic remnants, offered fertile soil ideal for cultivating grapevines, a major agricultural asset that bolstered the local economy. The rich volcanic soil supported a thriving wine industry, which became an important economic driver for Tiberias.
Additionally, Tiberias was endowed with abundant basalt rocks, which were extensively used in construction throughout the city. This geological richness not only facilitated the development of robust architectural structures but also underscored the city's connection to its natural surroundings. The northern parts of Tiberias, rich in high-quality building materials, became crucial in supplying resources for construction projects, not only within the city but also for export to the coastal plain of Palestine. This trade in building materials further cemented Tiberias' role in regional commerce and development.
The city’s vibrant markets, burgeoning residential areas, and innovative architectural developments highlighted its transformation into a flourishing urban center. Tiberias became a melting pot of cultural and economic activities, blending historical traditions with modern advancements. The infusion of new architectural styles, coupled with a dynamic economic landscape, underscored the city’s role as both a guardian of its rich historical heritage and a beacon of contemporary progress. This duality of preserving tradition while embracing innovation made Tiberias a distinctive and influential hub in the region.
The Omari Mosque: A Symbol of Cultural and Religious Identity
At the heart of this burgeoning city stood the Omari Mosque (also known as the Zaidani mosque), constructed by Yusuf al-Zaydani in 1153 AH / 1743 AD. As both the largest mosque in Tiberias and a symbol of the city's cultural and religious identity, the mosque played a central role in the daily life of the city. It was more than just a place of worship; it was a vibrant core of social interaction and business transactions. Its significance was immortalized by travelers and chroniclers, capturing its role in Tiberias' historical prosperity.
Architecturally, the mosque featured two floors and a central dome supported by an octagonal neck, with the structure's sturdy walls providing stability. The façade, constructed from limestone and volcanic basalt stones, created a visually striking and harmonious design characterized by strength and beauty. The entrance was flanked by two mihrabs, and the prayer hall’s interior continued the distinctive "ablaq" pattern of alternating basalt and limestone, enhancing the building’s elegance and grandeur.
The Shattered Echoes of Tiberias
The Zaidani Mosque – emblematic of Tiberias' architectural and cultural heritage – was not immune to the devastating impacts of settler colonialism. Tiberias was among the first cities ceded to Zionist organizations under British mandate and became an early recipient of Jewish immigration linked to the Zionist movement. In 1948, intense confrontations erupted between the local Palestinian residents and Zionist immigrants, resulting in the city falling under Jewish control with the support of British military forces. The British authorities forcibly evacuated Arab residents, displacing them across the Middle East, while Zionist settlers occupied their abandoned homes and appropriated their possessions.
Following their takeover, the Zionist authorities undertook a comprehensive transformation of Tiberias, systematically erasing its Arab neighborhoods and cultural landmarks. This process was not merely a change in the urban landscape but a deliberate and extensive effort to reshape the city’s cultural and religious identity. One significant alteration was the repurposing of the southern mosque, known as the Jisr Mosque, into a local museum.
The city's archaeological heritage was systematically obliterated, its ruins buried beneath the Zionist narrative that sought to reframe the city’s history. Despite attempts to erase its historical significance, remnants of Tiberias' cultural heritage (including the Zaidani Mosque) persist. However, the mosque has deteriorated significantly since the Nakba, facing imminent collapse. It has been neglected and repurposed as a storage facility following the demolition of its surrounding commercial structures, and remains closed to worshippers, its sacredness overshadowed by decay and abandonment.
Resilience Amid Ruins: The Unyielding Spirit of Tiberias
The Mosque in 1887
And in 1967
Efforts to restore the Zaidani Mosque have been systematically thwarted by the settler colonial government. Attempts to preserve its artifacts or revive its religious significance have been met with outright rejection. The mosque, once a sacred place of worship and community, has been deliberately vandalized and neglected, transforming it into a site of desolation. Hidden behind new constructions, the mosque's original essence is now buried beneath layers of neglect and decay.
The current state of the Zaidani Mosque epitomizes the larger tragedy faced by heritage sites across Palestinian territories. It stands as a haunting testament to the profound lack of spatial justice and the systematic erasure of cultural and historical identities. This mosque, once a vibrant beacon of community and faith, now languishes in a state of neglect and decay, overshadowed by the relentless advance of new developments that obscure its historical significance. Its degradation is not merely physical but emblematic of a broader assault on Palestinian heritage—a cruel reminder of a people’s ongoing struggle against the erasure of their collective memory. This sustained neglect is a vivid symbol of a tragic narrative where physical structures are not just lost but are emblematic of the erasure of a city’s soul, its cultural essence, and its historical narrative. The mosque’s decline underscores a grievous loss of identity and connection, reflecting a broader pattern of cultural obliteration that continues to devastate the rich tapestry of Palestinian history.
As Um Zaher poignantly recalls, "Tiberias used to be a piece of paradise. Don’t be fooled by its high-rise buildings today. Life in Tiberias was never boring. In summer, we enjoyed the lake’s shores; in winter, the hot baths; and during festivals, the markets, mosques, and churches. Despite my deep love for Tiberias, it pains me to see its mosques and churches desecrated and houses abandoned. I refuse to visit the city now, "for I find it too painful to witness the ruins of what once was. Thus, neither eyes see nor does the heart grieve.”
